Why Elderflower Cordial Belongs in a Slow Summer

There is a particular kind of joy in making something from nothing, or rather from something the hedgerow has quietly offered up for free. Elderflower cordial is the perfect entry point into rural slow living. It asks for a dry morning, a basket, a pair of secateurs and a little patience, and in return it gives you bottles of golden syrup that taste like the first warm week of June. Long after the blossom has gone over, you can open a bottle in November, dilute it with cold water, and be transported straight back to a sunlit lane with the bees humming overhead.

The elder tree, Sambucus nigra, grows almost everywhere in the British countryside, along field edges, in hedgerows, beside old railway lines and at the foot of cottage gardens. If you learn to recognise it properly, you will never be short of flowers again.

Identifying Elder and Choosing Your Moment

Elderflower appears from late May to mid-June, depending on where you are in the country. The flowers grow in flat, creamy-white umbels, each one a lacy plate of tiny blossoms with a sweet, slightly musky scent that some people compare to elderflower cordial itself. The leaves are pinnate, arranged in opposite pairs along the stem, and they have a distinctive smell when crushed.

Before you pick, make sure you are gathering the right thing. A few guidelines will keep you safe and respectful of the hedgerow:

• Pick flowers only from bushes you are confident about. Elderflower umbels are flat and cream; the leaves are opposite and divided into leaflets with serrated edges. Do not confuse it with other white-flowered shrubs.
• Avoid plants growing on roadside verges that are heavily trafficked, and never pick from hedges you know have been sprayed. If in doubt, walk on.
• Take no more than a couple of heads from any one bush. Leave plenty for the birds, the bees and next year's berries.
• Use your nose. Fresh elderflower smells sweet and clean. Once the flowers turn brown or drop, they are past their best.

Timing matters more than most people realise. Pick on a dry, sunny morning after the dew has lifted but before the heat of the day, when the pollen and scent are at their peak. Damp flowers will make a cloudy, less fragrant cordial, so if it has rained overnight, wait a day.

What You Will Need

The recipe is generous and forgiving, but a few bits of kit make the whole process calmer. You will need a large bowl or a big preserving pan, a clean muslin or a fine sieve, a funnel, and enough bottles to hold around three litres. Glass bottles with swing tops or screw caps are ideal; sterilise them by washing in hot soapy water, rinsing well, and drying in a low oven for ten minutes. If you plan to freeze the cordial, leave a little headroom in plastic bottles instead.

For the cordial itself:

• About 20 to 25 elderflower heads, picked over gently to remove any insects or stems
• 1.5 kg granulated sugar
• 1.5 litres water
• 2 unwaxed lemons, zested in wide strips and then sliced
• 50 g citric acid, available from pharmacies or home-brew shops; this is what preserves the cordial and keeps it fresh for months

The citric acid is not optional if you want the cordial to keep at room temperature. It also sharpens the flavour beautifully, balancing the sweetness of the sugar.

Infusing the Flowers

Bring the water and sugar to the boil in a large pan, stirring until the sugar has completely dissolved. Take it off the heat and let it cool for a few minutes. You want the syrup warm, not boiling, because scalding water can cook the delicate floral notes and leave your cordial tasting dull.

Add the lemon zest, lemon slices, citric acid and elderflower heads to the warm syrup. Give everything a gentle stir, cover the pan with a clean cloth or lid, and leave it to infuse somewhere cool for 24 hours, and up to 48 hours if you want a deeper flavour. Stir once or twice during that time. The liquid will turn a pale gold and smell extraordinary.

After infusing, strain the cordial through a muslin-lined sieve into a clean jug or pan. Do not squeeze the flowers; let gravity do the work so the cordial stays clear. Pour into your sterilised bottles using a funnel, seal, and label with the date.

Storing, Serving and Using Your Cordial

Properly made with citric acid, the cordial will keep in a cool, dark cupboard for six months or more, and even longer in the fridge. Once opened, keep it chilled. If you spot any cloudiness or a fizzy smell, discard it.

To serve, dilute roughly one part cordial to five parts cold water, sparkling water or tonic, over plenty of ice. It is lovely with a slice of lemon, a sprig of mint, or a few raspberries from the garden. A spoonful also lifts a gin and tonic, a glass of prosecco, or a fruit salad, and it can be drizzled over yoghurt or used to poach gooseberries and rhubarb.

If you have more flowers than you can use, freeze the heads in bags and make a second batch in a few weeks. Making elderflower cordial is a small ritual that ties you to the turning of the year, and once you have done it, you will find yourself watching the hedgerows every June, waiting for the blossom to open.